Milford Sound

We awoke this morning to a very heavy mist. To say that we were disappointed would be an understatement as today was all about the scenery of Milford Sound. Nevertheless we got ready and met our early morning pick up for our trip. The journey was about two and a half hours and with our very interesting lady driver we were soon at our destination with a couple of photo stops on the way. A short way from the jetty we passed through a tunnel with a gradient of 1/10 and then proceeded down a very windy road. As we came over the hill the mist lifted and was replaced by the sun and that was how it remained for the rest of the day.

All the literature that I had read said that Milford would be very crowded but there was a surprising lack of people and even the boat itself was relatively empty.

Milford Sound in fact is not a sound but a fiord carved by a glacier. There are 14 fiords in the area and Milford is the most northerly. The sides of the Sound are very steep and covered with spagnum moss with very little soil. Trees and plants start to grow in the moss, the roots then fan out to find a crack to grow in. Thus when there is a tree avalanche hundreds of trees and plants come down as all their roots are intertwined. Anyway back to our boat trip. Once more it was spectacular, the mountains were so high that you could fall over backwards just trying to see the tops. Although they were almost in a drought situation (they hadn't had any rain for 16 days) there were waterfalls wherever you looked. It was obvioulsy too hot for the marine life today as all we saw were some fur seals basking in the sunshine on a rock, but no sign of either dolphins or penguins today.

Dunedin to Te Anau

Wednesday 27.01.10

Today we travelled through part of the Southland making our way from Dunedin towards Te Anau, our next stop. The scenery was one of rolling hills in the distance with sheep scattered about like daisies in the green fields across the plains. Our coffee stop today was in the town of Gore where we met a delightful old gentleman here who greeted us in the usual fashion by asking us how we were, where we came from and where we were going to. He was very chatty told us a bit about the town and then about the experience that he and his wife had had the previous May. They were fast asleep when 2 girls knocked on the door to tell them that their house was on fire. Only 2 rooms remained untouched and the house had been completely refurbished. He was 90 and his wife was 84. We wished him good day and continued on our journey passing through Mossburn, the deer capital of New Zealand and on to Te Anu. The town is larger than I expected and once more we are in accommodation overlooking the lake, how lucky we are.

Thursday 28.01.10
Today we have been to Doubtful Sound on a wild life experience!!

This meant that we travelled by boat, coach and then another boat into Doubtful Sound and out to the Tasman Sea. As yesterday had been such a sunny day we were a little disappointed when we awoke to cloud, but unlike the folk who did the trip yesterday in the good weather and saw no wild life we saw Fur Seals, Fiordland Crested Penguins (which are apparently quite rare) and a group of bottle nose dolphins who very kindly put on a display for us. All worth trading the sun for. Wow, nearly forgot the 'highlight' of the day was a visit to Manapouri Power Station and to do this we had to travel 2km down a spiral access tunnel (in the coach) into the mountain to the turbine machine hall. A marvellous piece of engineering as it was all excavated by hand and dynamite.

Dunedin, Taieri Gorge and the Albatross

Well what a day we have had. Having arrived at Dunedin yesterday we awoke this morning to bright blue sky and sunshine. We were booked to go on a railway journey through the Teieri Gorge. This was not a steam engine but a diesel and took in some scenery that you would not have been able to see unless you were on the train. The most exciting part was passing over the Wingatui Viaduct, 197m long and 47m above Mullocky Stream. It reminded me of the trains in the old wild west films that ran over valleys, almost on stilts.

We finished the day with a trip to The Albatross Colony at Taiaroa Head (Pukekura). The albatross, which came over to New Zealand from the Chatham Islands laid its first egg in 1920 but it was not until 1938 that a chick was fledged successfully. We were lucky enough to have a guide to ourselves and were told that once the bird has left the nest it flies continuously never stopping on land for about five years and only comes back to Pukekura when it is ready to mate. Our guide told us that as it was very warm today there had been no sightings of the birds actually flying so imagine our delight that within seconds of us entering the hide an albatross flew towards us and returned several times. What a perfect day, we will always remember our visit to Dunedin. Tomorrow we are off to Te Anau.

Lake Tekapo to Kurow via Mount Cook

I really can't believe how much we seem to have packed in since leaving Lake Tekapo yesterday morning. We had decided to take in Mt Cook and the Sir Edmund Hilary Alpine Centre which is a tribute to the late Kiwi explorer and the first man to reach the summit of Everest. We approached Aoraki along the shore of Lake Pukaki, a fairly easy run (from my point of view) as there were not too many twists and turns in the road. Once more the scenery was fantastic with mountains of all shapes and colours for as far as the eye could see contrasting with the pale turquoise of the lake. Mount Cook is the highest mountain in New Zealand at 3754 metres, and although we couldn't see the top due to the heavy cloud we could see snow on some of the nearby peaks.
We picniced at a place on the shore of the lake called Peter's Lookout, very apt we thought.

Then on to Kurow where we were to spend the night at Glenmac, a cattle and sheep farm. This was run by a lovely couple called Kay and Keith and as it was some way from the village we had dinner at the farm along with an Irish couple from Suffolk, a retired dentist and his wife. Wow, what a dinner, drinks before and then fresh roast lamb from the farm with a vast array of veg and a fresh apricot desert.

Good job we went for a walk after dinner because breakfast was equally as good. Defintely food for thought if ever we come back.

Our destination for today was Dunedin so on the recommendation of Pat, the Irish dentist, we stopped at Oamaru for coffee to see some of the local architecture and again at Moeraki where we stopped to see the famous Moeraki boulders which are strewn along the beach like giant turtle eggs having been formed some 65 million years ago. At first glance you could almost think they were manmade they were so cylindrical.

Hamner Springs to Lake Tekapo

We went back down the highway and bypassed Christchurch this time heading south. As we travelled the weather got worse and we had torrential rain for mile after mile. We could no longer see any mountains but didn’t know if there were none or if we just couldn’t see them due to the mist that accompanied the rain. After a five hour drive we eventually arrived minus the rain at Lake Tekapo and boy was it worth it. We thought we had seen some amazing scenery and mountains but nothing compared with this and to top it all our room overlooked the lake (we had to do a little bit of bargaining for this). I needed to do some ironing and thought to myself if I had this view at home ironing would no longer be a chore. Lake Tekapo is 710m above sea level and is coloured a beautiful turquoise which is created by ‘rock flour’. Glaciers in the headwaters of Tekapo grind rock into fine dust on their journey down towards the lake. This ‘rock flour’ is suspended in the water and when combined with sunlight creates the unique water colour.
This morning as the mountains were not clear enough for a flight we decided that we would embark on the climb up to the summit of Mt John (1043m above sea level) and although it was pretty steep and with some rather sheer drops we managed to get to the top where the observatory is. From the top we had a 360 degree view of the surrounding area. Next decision – should we go back the way we came or go further on and return via the lake side, we decide on the latter stopping on the way for a picnic lunch. Four and half hours later we returned tired and weary but rather pleased that we had managed to do the round trip.

Christchurch ro Kaikoura and then on to Hanmer Springs

Our aim on Tuesday was to go to Akaroa on the coast but woke late, Peter having had a disturbed night (not by my snoring)by the people in the next room who had their TV on all night. We were offered another room and said we would think about it and made our way to the I-site (tourist information)to book some accommodation for our stay. We were advised to book the whole journey and thus spent a good part of the day there. It was then so late in the day that we dedided to go back to the hotel for a cup of tea and 'regroup' to be told that we would be moved to an executive suite, pity it was only for one night but at least the driver was well rested the next day. We never did get to Akaroa but went for a walk instead.

Wednesday morning we set off up the coast to Kaikoura which had been recommended to us for whale watching. The scenery on the way was absolutely stunning, I couldn't believe that you could be driving up the coastal road and have mountains on both sides of the road. The only down side of this was that as we got closer to Kaikoura there were some pretty sharp bends, not for the faint hearted (me). We explored Kaikoura which was very small but very commercialised but was set with a backdrop of mountains that seemed to come almost down to the sea and flanked by the Pacific Ocean. In the end we decided not to go whale watching as on enquiring the price decided that as we didn't want to buy shares in the company and we had seen whales in South Africa that we would give it a miss. We went to see the seals instead.

Our journey today was once more through some spectacular scenery, there is so much but I am sure that we will not tire of it. Of course going up into the mountains there were a few more hairpin bends and as I was on the 'drop' side a bit scarey for me. On turning off for coffee at the only place we passed it poured with rain so we spent a pleasant hour with a couple from Manchester who were touring the South Island by motorbike. Hanmer Springs is an oasis in the mountains with thermal pools and a spa, the thermal waters being full of minerals that supposely help your body repair and rejuvinate. Being in the water increases the flow of oxygen-rich blood throughout the body, nourishing vital organs and tissues. Only time will tell if it worked. Anyway having been soaking for two hours I asked Peter if I looked any younger he wouldn't commit himself, we were certainly a bit prunish.

Day 2 in Christchurch

Although the sun was not shining when we awoke this morning at least it wasn't raining. We decided to check with the local tourist information just to see what they thought of our itinerary. I think he was most impressed and Nick, the guy that we spoke to, came up with a route for us and suggestions of how long to stay in each place. Then it was off to collect the car, a pretty painless procedure, the only drawback being that it is an automatic and I have only ever driven a manual. Anyway Pete says that I will manage. We then made our way to go up yet another gondola (cable car to you and me). All was well until it stopped for what seemed like minutes but was probably only a few seconds but at least we reached the top and it was well worth the effort. The view across Canterbury Plains, Christchurch and Lyttleton was amazing and you could even see the Pacific Ocean. As there was a walking route down we decide to give the gondola a miss and made our way along the road and down a track called the Bridle Way. It was pretty tough going and very rough under foot but would you believe it there were people actually walking up and it was very steep in places. I think we will sleep well tonight.

As we leave Hong Kong and journey on to New Zealand

Friday 15.01.10 - Once again we caught the shuttle bus down to the waterside deciding to go along the Avenue of Stars. This is a tribute to the stars of the silver screen consisting of plaques, handprints and sculptures. The only one we had heard of was Bruce Lee. We covered a few parks and came upon a road called Lower Chatham Road, very significant. Lunch was a pizza, just couldn’t face any more prawns or Chinese food. Then it was a quick walk back to the shuttle bus and back to the hotel for a nap, shower and departure.

Saturday 16.01.10 - Today we are flying with Quantas. It was the first time I have ever been upstairs on a plane but the food was good as was the seat and I think we both had the best night’s sleep so far. I am not sure if this was the pyjamas that they gave us or the really comfortable seats. We had to change flights at Sydney and with less than an hour to spare rushed through the airport to catch our plane for Christchurch. Having just had a substantial breakfast of smoked salmon and scrambled eggs we were immediately offered lunch on the plane heading for Christchurch. At this rate we won’t need excess baggage on our return we will be carrying it with us. I have to say we refused lunch and just opted for a coffee followed by cheese and biscuits.

We thought that things were going well and it wouldn’t be long before we would be arriving at our hotel but having waited for a considerable time at the carousel and watched cases come and go and come again we realised that we now didn’t have any luggage. It was still in Sydney. However, the Quantas people were very helpful, located the luggage and arranged to have it flown out later that day. As a gesture we were given a Quantas ‘goodie’ bag containing some basic toiletries, shorts and a T-shirt. Not sure if we should wear them out for dinner tonight, it’s either the clothes that we have had on for I don’t know how many hours and probably aren’t as fresh as they were (good job we didn’t sleep in them), the PJ’s we were given on the plane or the T-shirt and shorts which would probably look quite good with trainers!!

I’m pleased to say we were saved from modelling the Quantas gear for dinner because with minutes to go before we were off to dinner our suite cases arrived.

Sunday 17.01.10 - What have they done with this weather? It’s supposed to be summer and it’s cold and drizzly, temperature today got up to a high of 16⁰! Our waitress last night says that last summer it was up in the 30’s!! Well that hasn’t stopped us we have been out and about exploring Christchurch today. It’s lovely and flat and compact and ideal for walking. The River Avon flows through the centre and there are lots of parks and open spaces and some very interesting Gothic and wooden architecture. Tomorrow we get our car and then we are off further afield.

A visit to Victoria Peak, Hong Kong

Well today we decided to do our own thing so we caught the shuttle bus from the hotel down to the water, walked along to the pier and caught the ferry over to Hong Kong Island. We duly waited for the bus to take us from the ferry to Victoria Peak and after only a few minutes along it came. It was then that we learnt that you had to have the correct fare and no change could be given so a little cross we got off the bus and looked around for somewhere to buy something in order to get change. It was then that we saw a tiny exchange which would give us the change we required. When the next bus came it was an open topped double decker so all had turned out well. In no time at all we arrived at the sky train, a fenicular railway, my second experience of heights in 2 days. I have to admit that I much preferred it to the cable car although would not have liked to sit at the front as in some places it was very steep. We had chosen to go up to the viewing platform and having made our way through all the many souvenir stalls and shops eventually ended up almost on top of the world and although there was a heat mist today the view was breath taking.

On our return I was just a little worried that we might be at the front of the train so was relieved to see that as the train could not turn around we actually all faced back the way we had come, if this was not the case it would definitely not have been a trip for the feint hearted.

The journey was smooth and as a treat to ourselves we had cream cakes with a cup of tea.

Our Journey and arrival in Hong Kong

Snow being a possibility on the day of our departure we decided to make an early start only to find that the roads were clear of both traffic and snow resulting in us having about five hours to spare. Time passed quickly however, helped by a glass of something bubbly and interesting conversation with two couples both of whom were going to South Africa.

Well here we are on our first complete day in Hong Kong having arrived late yesterday afternoon to a city in the mist. My first impression on landing was one of surprise as I had been of the opinion that the airport was in the middle of the city and surrounded by high rise buildings, however, we were informed today that was once the case and to land and take off had been pretty hairy but all this changed in 1992 when a new airport was built on the island of Lantau.

Today we have been on a tour to Tsing Ma Lantau Monastry over the Taing Ma Bridge which is very similar to the Golden Gate bridge in San Francisco (the longest suspension bridge in the world). Having been to Cheung Sha Beach in the south of Lantau we then went to a tiny fishing village called Tai-O where the market stalls which lined the road were festooned with numerous varieties of dried fish for eating and other dried and questionable things that are used in Chinese medicine. As all the stalls seemed to stock the same items it made us wonder how they acutally made a living but were assured that they sell their freshly caught fish to restaurants and at the weeked people from the mainland come to buy there because it is much cheaper.


Then came lunch and for this went to a monastry where we had a vegetarian meal. The monks are Buddists and as such do not eat fish or meat and drink no alcohol. Even so the meal was great, it's amazing how many different things you can do with vegetables. From the grounds of the monastry we were able to see the largest Buddah in Asia perched on the top of the mountain at the top of 269 steps. It is relatively new as it was only erected in 1998 and is made completely of bronze and weighs 250 tons.

Having had lunch my nightmare began. The 'highlight' of the tour was a ride on the Ngong Ping 360 cable car, a ride that lasts about 25 minutes goes down, up and around corners so every time someone said we're nearly there around the bend, or over the next hill there was more. Boy was I glad to get back on terra firma.

At last the big day has come. Only a few hours now and we will be on our way.

Packing all done, just the wait now hoping that there will not be any more snow which could result in a delayed flight. First stop Honk Kong.